Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel train arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.

This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.

"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He's organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Wine Gardens Across the Globe

So far, the grower's plot is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of Paris's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 vines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect land from development by establishing long-term, yielding agricultural units within cities," says the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, local spirit, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the president.

Unknown Polish Grapes

Back in the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he grew from a plant left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to feast again. "This is the mystery Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Activities Throughout the City

The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can keep cultivating from the soil."

Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production

Nearby, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established over 150 plants situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of vines arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make good, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very on trend, but really it's reviving an old way of making vintage."

"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the juice," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and then incorporate a lab-grown yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental local weather is not the sole challenge encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a fence on

Timothy Riley
Timothy Riley

A seasoned travel writer and luxury consultant with over a decade of experience exploring the world's most exclusive destinations.